In the 19th century, the Victorians had an intense fascination with death and mourning, which was reflected in their fashion—especially in the jewelry they wore. Mourning was a serious affair during this era, and one of the ways people coped with loss was by wearing elaborate mourning jewelry that helped them keep a connection to their deceased loved ones.

Lockets of Love (and Hair)

One of the most popular pieces of mourning jewelry was the locket, often worn close to the heart. These lockets were made to hold a small, cherished memento of the deceased—most commonly a lock of their hair. Victorians believed that hair had a special connection to the soul, and because it didn't decompose, it became the perfect keepsake for loved ones to carry with them. Some lockets were even intricately woven with the hair itself, creating delicate, decorative patterns inside the jewelry.

Jet: The Stone of Mourning

Victorian mourning jewelry was often made from a special material called jet, a fossilized wood that is deep black and had a somber, glossy appearance. Queen Victoria popularized the use of jet after the death of her husband, Prince Albert. In her deep mourning, she wore jet jewelry for decades, setting a trend that swept through Victorian society. Black jet beads, necklaces, and brooches became the symbol of mourning, and wearing them signified a person was in mourning.

Memorial Rings and Brooches

Beyond lockets, memorial rings and brooches were also common ways to commemorate the dead. These pieces often featured engravings of the deceased’s name, date of death, or sentimental phrases like “In Memory Of.” Sometimes, the rings included tiny portraits of the lost loved ones, while others contained more hairwork, intricately woven into patterns like flowers or wreaths.

Symbols of Remembrance

Victorian mourning jewelry was filled with symbolic imagery. Willow trees, urns, and skulls were commonly seen, as well as symbols like the forget-me-not flower, which represented remembrance and love beyond death. These symbols were a reminder to keep the memory of the deceased alive, and they were often subtly included in jewelry designs, blending beauty with meaning.